Italy Day 13 – Gelato! Oh, and Florence too

Instead of taking the train to Florence, as suggested by Italians and tour books, I decided to drive. I don't like the extra time required to take the train and I like the flexibility of having a car to allow for plans to change more easily. Driving in Florence is pretty crazy, but, as with all driving in Italy, you're fine if you shoulder check continually, drive aggressively so you blend into the crowd, and either read the Italian signs quickly (they like to put epic novels on their signage) or just go for it and hope for the best.

My day started off at the Basilica di Santa Croce, the burial place for Galileo, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, and many others. The church has a lot of work being done so much of the interior was covered by scaffolding, but it was still a beautiful place.

Basilica di Santa Croce.

Stained glass and frescoes.

I'd like to see all this move when a key goes in the lock!

Michelangelo's simple little tribute.

Portion of a painting in the little cathedral museum.

It's amazing how quickly it starts to feel quite normal to walk on streets that look like this.

When I walked through the Piazza della Signoria I cringed at the massive, nude fountain statue of Neptune. I know some people can appreciate nudes for the art, but I can only do that to a certain extent and then I'm just embarrassed. It feels like I just walked in on a guy getting out of the shower and I want to laugh and duck out of there as quickly as possible. A couple of women from Tennessee were taking each other's photos in front of the fountain so I offered to shoot a photo of them together. I meet a lot of people this way and it's often the only conversations I have in a day (my family laughs when I talk to them on the phone because I often chatter on and on, but it's only because I so rarely have a chance to talk to people so my words come tumbling out). Charlesetta, on the right in the photo below, runs a group tour company for international travel so she gave me her website and I've given her the link to my blog. (Hi Charlie, if you read this!) I decided to include a photo of these adorable women to give an example of the fun people I get to meet. I should keep track of the nationalities of people I photograph. So far it's been several Americans, a few Belgians, an Indian couple from England who were on their honeymoon, a few Argentineans, a Chinese couple, a Spanish family, English, Scottish, Canadian, Italian, and lots of people who didn't speak a word of English or Spanish so I have no idea where they're from.

Two from Tennessee!

I love how the pigeons consider the famous fountain statues to simply be a comfy place to perch.

My first museum was the Galleria degli Uffizi, a massive collection of art mostly collected by the Medici family (photography is forbidden). Some of the exhibits were closed for maintenance, but it was still amazing to see so many famous pieces. My knowledge of the history of art is limited so I wasn't able to appreciate the pieces in depth, but I still appreciated the beauty.

I wandered along narrow streets to reach the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore; this is the home of the big dome so famous in photos of the Florence skyline. Entrance is free so I explored the building and admired the incredible ceiling of the dome from the floor of the cathedral because I couldn't bear the thought of spending eight euros to gain closer access to the dome. Nearby are the octagonal Battistero, a seventh century building with the facade added between the eleventh and thirteenth centuries, and the Campanile, a bell tower.

Battistero, Cathedral, and Campanile.

Ceiling in the cathedral dome.
(Clicking on the photo should provide a large version for detail.)

A tour book I borrowed from the library recommended stopping by Perche No!... (it means, “Why Not!...”), a shop selling gelato near the Piazza del Duomo. As I tried to get my bearings in the streets I was surprised to find myself outside the shop without trying. Seemed like a little touch of destiny so I figured it was a good reason to grab some lunch and dessert. I went to a nearby shop for focaccia with cheese, bruschetta and arugula and another with cheese, tomatoes and basil. They were sort of like triangular sandwiches (the focaccia is more like a really delicious, dense, white biscuit than the fluffy bread focaccia from the grocery store in Canada) heated in a big, brick oven. Simple but delicious. I headed back to Perche No!..., supposedly a favourite of the American soldiers when Florence was liberated during World War II, and perused their selection of gelato. An Italian girl was in the shop and she said she's had gelato all over Florence and theirs is the best – natural ingredients and a good price. For four euros they packed five flavours into a cup. I'm not too proud to admit that I went back again later in the afternoon. It was my first time having gelato in Italy and I waited until the end of my trip on purpose because I knew I would just keep buying it as I travelled around if I tried it at the beginning of my time here. I can't even remember all the flavours I tried. My favourites were strawberry, tiramisu, cookies-and-cream (with shavings of chocolate mixed in), coffee, and the chocolate flavour was strong enough to satisfy any chocoholic. Good stuff.

First time having gelato in Italy!

I was expecting the Galleria dell' Accademia to be a larger gallery, but I did find it really interesting to see the details of the paintings on display. Before and after photos of restoration work that had been carried out or images of scans showing the layers of paint and how the artist had changed the image. It's definitely more of a teaching gallery and I really appreciated the details. The major showpiece of the Accademia is Michelangelo's David (1504). You round a corner and enter a long gallery with sculptures along the sides and facing you at the end of the hallway is a really huge, white, shiny, naked man on a pedestal. I got the biggest smirk and wanted to let loose with a grin and maybe a guffaw but it felt more like the atmosphere at a library; not a place where sarcastic laughter would be appreciated. People standing around with awestruck expressions. A tour guide speaking to a group of college students in French. People sitting on benches around the statue with serious faces. I wanted to elbow somebody and hiss, “Doesn't it seem weird to you that he's completely naked? Sure, Saul's armour didn't fit him, but I really don't think David would have faced Goliath starkers.”

My reaction to seeing the famous statue in person came out in shocked humour about the situation, but I was mostly embarrassed for David; it felt disrespectful to show him nude. My feet were aching so I found a bench where I could rest and view David from an angle where his nakedness wasn't quite so... obtrusive. I wanted to be able to look over the non-graphic details and appreciate the art of what I was seeing. I found it fascinating to look at the muscles and the mastery it takes to know exactly how much to carve to get it to look so amazing. How does a person take a block of marble and start chipping away and know when enough is enough? It was incredible to think that Michelangelo's hands touched what I was looking at. Photos were forbidden but I had to sneak a shot of his face just for proof that I was really there (me and the numerous other people who pulled out their cameras... they got yelled at but I sort of hid behind a pillar).

David.

The other Michelangelo sculptures that line the hall in front of David were a series titled Prisoners (1505). I loved the style, called non finito (unfinished), where the sculptures look like they're trying to escape the confines of the block of marble.

I guess I like things that leave room for the imagination. I prefer ruins to city streets, forests and fields to formal gardens, and non finito Prisoners versus the explicit David.

As I was wandering the city streets I passed a construction area and a guy up on some scaffolding whistled a cat call. I smirked and looked up to see if it was aimed at me. It was. Oh yeah – a little piece of the Italian charm aimed my way. Yes, I know it was from a construction worker so it's really nothing to be proud of and can't technically be classified as “charm”, but I'll take it. Oh, and when I gave a second glance it yielded a double-take, a lean out of a store entrance, and a loaded-tone, “Ciao!” (“Hello!”) in Rome. These guys seriously react to the slightest provocation. Way too easy and a lot of fun when you want some entertainment.

By this time the day had worn on to about 4:00 p.m. and I was done. My brain had seen enough art and the thought of paying for a ticket to another museum, gallery or church didn't appeal to me. I wandered down the streets to view the outside of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, ventured briefly into the convent courtyard, and headed to the river.




I walked along the Arno River between the Ponte Vecchio, a famous bridge covered with shops seen in the photo above, and past the Ponte alle Grazie, and walked up Viale della Giovane Italia to return to where my car was parked. (I'm including the Italian for people like my Dad who love those details.)

Italy Day 12 – More Exploring

This morning my feet were still sore from being in Rome yesterday; walking cobblestone streets for seven hours will do that to you. I decided to take it easy this morning and head out for some local exploration this afternoon. I wanted to drive around a portion of Lago Trasimeno I had yet to cover. The lake can be viewed from the area where I park in Panicale and I wanted to get near the water. I also wanted to drive into the hills north-east of the lake to reach a town called Castel Rigone because a tour book said the drive was beautiful. It was raining but I checked the weather forecast and it's supposed to rain all week. So far the forecasters have been wrong and there's no way I'm sitting around just because it's raining. I grabbed my jacket and umbrella and hoped for the skies to clear. As I drove around the lake I realized I was heading toward a patch of blue sky and I enjoyed a mostly rain-free afternoon.

The fifteenth century church in Castel Rigone.

Some quirky faces carved in a wall.

Incredible scenery as I drove through the hills.

I loved walking next to the lake. I think growing up two blocks from the beach and having so many wonderful memories tied to being near lakes, rivers, or the ocean makes me feel at home as soon as I'm walking near a body of water.

An island in Lago Trasimeno.

Italy Day 11 - Roma in the Rain

I did it! I visited Rome alone. I made great memories and it's a good thing I like reading maps. I checked off some of the items on my must-see list, I hugged a random guy, I wandered through ancient ruins, and I tossed a coin in Trevi Fountain. I got up at 5:30 a.m. in order to catch an early train, which turned out to be an hour late; a long day, but I'm really glad I went.


I ended up waiting in line for about twenty minutes to get into the Colosseum and when I reached the ticket counter I was told they only accept cash. Would have been nice if they had posted that fact somewhere near the entrance! I was really irritated but I had to just laugh about it or I'd get really upset at the delay. An English speaking tour guide told me where I could find a cash point. I tried going where he suggested but their connection was down so no cash. I was directed to another place a few blocks away and was surprised by being treated to views of the Foro di Traiano along the way – ruins featuring the pillars and tumbled-down blocks of marble I've only seen in history books. I also walked past the Monument to Vittorio Emmanuele II. I don't know the significance but I recognized the sculptures on the roof and it was another surreal moment.


When I visited the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in November I visited an area with plaster casts of famous sculptures. I noted Trajan's Column with scenes sculpted in a spiral. I remember admiring it for a while and thinking how crazy it would be to see it in real life. After I finally found a cash machine I turned to head back to the Colosseum and my jaw dropped to realize that Trajan's Column was right in front of me. It must make God smile to delight us with moments like that.

A portion of Trajan's Column.

Later in the day I stumbled upon the Column of Marcus Aurelius, similar in design to Trajan's Column.

Column of Marcus Aurelius, built on this site in 193 AD.

I enjoyed visiting the Colosseum but I've heard so much about it and seen so many pictures that I didn't find it awe-inspiring or surprising. It's still one of those things you just have to see in person when you're in Rome. The part I did love was wandering through the ruins of the Roman Forum.

A view from the upper level of the Colosseum.
To the left is the Arch of Constantino.
The road leading away is the Via Sacra leading to the Roman Forum.

Detail in the Arch of Constantino.

Rome and the ruins of the Roman Forum.
The big, white building in the background with dark statues on top is the Monument to Vittorio Emmanuele II.

Temple of Antoninus and Faustina.

I love the little details found in the piles of rubble.

The Roman Forum.

I had seen a group of about eight people wandering around who appeared to be around college age – seemed like an eclectic mixture of people. I saw one of the guys taking a photo of the rest of the group so I stopped and asked if he was with them and if they wanted a photo with all of them together. As I was getting ready to take the photo I asked where they were from. Turns out their group was made up of three smaller groups of friends that met at the Roman Forum and decided to wander around together. The guy who had been taking the photo said he was from Vancouver, British Columbia. I lowered the camera and excitedly exclaimed, “Really? Okay, I'm sorry, I need a hug,” and ran up to him and he just laughed and gave me a hug as he asked, “Where are you from?” It was so fun to meet somebody from back home! I've been so lonely lately and hearing that someone was from Vancouver made me lose my head. Anton was really friendly and we chatted for a little while. Yeah, I wonder why... some random girl throwing herself at him, little realizing how old I am and how out of character it was for me. When I passed them a few minutes later he called out my name and when I turned he was holding up his camera so I gave him a smile. Oh yeah... I'll be remembered as the random chick who hugged him in Rome... good times!

I heard that Piazza Navona was worth a visit so that was my next stop since I had run out of time to visit the Vatican because they close early in the winter (although I did see the dome of St. Peter's from a hill at the ruins). By this time it was pouring rain. My jeans were soaked almost to my knees, my feet were starting to feel damp, and my umbrella was letting an occasional drip of water through but I didn't care. I loved splashing along the sidewalks and seeing the raindrops splatter on the marble stairs. I loved thinking about how crazy it was that I was actually in Rome. The rain is a hassle for taking photos but I managed to get the shots I wanted and the overcast sky provided good light.

Piazza Navona is lined with beautiful buildings and restaurants – the kind of place that would be good for people-watching with a hot drink when the weather is clear. The Romans originally used the space as a competition arena. There were a couple of large fountains and I liked the absurdity of the one with children subduing sea creatures.

Fontana del Moro.

Fontana di Netuna.

Fontana di Netuna.

Next stop was the Pantheon. The day was almost done so I didn't stay long.

The Pantheon.

Interior of the Pantheon.

Columns at the entrance of the Pantheon.

Yes, it's true. They're everywhere.

The final stop for my day in Rome was the Fontana di Trevi – the huge fountain where standing with your back to the water and tossing a coin over your shoulder is supposed to ensure that you'll return to the Rome some day. Although I give no credit to the idea, I had to participate in the tradition. It's something I've wanted to do since I watched Three Coins in the Fountain when I was a teenager.

Trevi Fountain.

Trevi Fountain detail.

The coin I tossed in Trevi Fountain.

A woman around my age came up and asked me to take a photo of her and we started chatting. She's from Argentina and just finished spending a month travelling with a friend and now she's on her own for a month. So great to finally meet another girl travelling alone! We visited for about twenty minutes in front of the fountain. It was a good end to a very long, exhausting, incredible day.

The delayed train to Rome and the Colosseum only accepting cash made me miss out on seeing the Sistine Chapel, I place I really wanted to see. I'll have to save Saint Peter's and the Vatican Museum for another trip. I've seen enough of Rome that I'm content for this trip, but I really hope I can go back again some day. There are more things I want to see and the entire city is like a living museum begging to be explored.

Italy Day 8, 9, and 10 – Nothing Much

Most stores and museums in Italy are shut down all day Sunday and Monday and I wasn't feeling well on Saturday so the past few days have involved what I call “down time”. That basically involves hanging out at my little apartment, going to the local grocer to stock up on food, visiting the tourism office to use their free internet access to check my email and do some research for the trips I'm planning for this week, doing some laundry, watching movies, and just relaxing.

I got a text message from Ann back in Hook today. They're snowed in and the heat isn't working. I'm sad that I'm missing out on seeing the snow but I'm happy to be missing out on the cold house!

When I first came to Italy I wasn't ready to visit Rome solo. Other cities I could handle, but for some reason the idea of wandering the streets of Rome alone intimidates me. As my time here has worn on, I've realized the best reason to make myself go there is the fear that keeps me from going. I've made a list of the key sites I want to visit and I'm going to go for it. I'm nervous but it's something I'm capable of doing so I want to make myself do it. I know if I don't go, I'll regret it later.