Saturday, December 13, 2008

Road Trip - Day 6 - Cornwall, Devon and Somerset

Today the plan was to wrap around the coast up to Minehead, the place where I'm staying tonight, but I decided to change plans, yet again! I ended up hitting a couple of spots on the coast and then driving through Devon and Exmoor National Park. The scenery was beautiful! The road wound back and forth through the hills and pheasants around every corner. In my favourite section there were tall trees with brilliant green moss covering low stone walls. The moss contrasted sharply with the dark red fallen leaves piled between the trees and against the sides of the road. The road didn't allow for pulling over for photos so the image is only in my memory.

I held up my camera at various points throughout the day and snapped shots of the roads I was driving on (no worries - I slowed down when there were no other cars around). The most beautiful portion was through madly winding roads so I couldn't get photos, but this album gives a cross-section of images for those who are curious. Link Here


When I left Bath on Wednesday, the first place I stopped was a home and garden shop to buy some cheap wellies. They've been helpful at a few mucky places along the way and I wore them most of today. I kept hitting pockets of heavy rain so all the paths were muddy. I love being able to tramp around through wet grass, gooey mud, and deep puddles without a thought.

First stop today was a little random spot on the coast called Hartland Point. The lighthouse was closed so I wasn't able to get down to the beach, but there was a still a great view from the top of the hill. The rain held up while I was walking and just as I returned to the car, the downpour returned.


I tried going to a couple of other spots just off the main road but they didn't provide the views I was looking for. I decided to head to Minehead and visit some places in that area. I called the B&B and the owner suggested I go to Porlock Weir. Along the way I saw a sign to a National Trust site called Selworthy. The estate was open to exploration for free – a cluster of thatched-roof cottages, an old church, and walking trails into the hills. It's a probably a great place to go for a long walk, but I didn't have much time so I wandered around the village, stopped briefly at Porlock Weir, and settled at the B&B in Minehead for the night.

Tomorrow is my last day wandering the countryside and I return to Hook on Monday.

The view from the parking lot at Selworthy.

I passed some people walking two of these puppies so I had to stop and get some love.

A cottage at Selworthy.

The sun setting over the cottages at Selworthy.
I kept expecting Hobbits to appear.

The graveyard at Selworthy.

Porlock Weir.
As the waves crashed over the rocks, the stones rolled and made a sound like thousands of people applauding in the distance.

Friday, December 12, 2008

Road Trip - Day 5 - Salisbury, Stourhead, and Lyme Regis

My day started off fighting an incredibly strong desire to never leave the warmth and comfort of my bed that was fit for a princess. People who can afford to stay in five-star accommodation are insanely fortunate. I thoroughly enjoyed my taste of luxury B&B accommodation... candelabras on the breakfast table and mirrors that undoubtedly cost more than both my first and second cars combined. The guys who made the B&B knew what they were doing because when I got in the shower I didn't want to get out of there either. It has one of those ridiculously decadent torrential rain storm shower heads that practically drowns you when you stand under it.

I did eventually drag myself away and walked to nearby Salisbury Cathedral to take a look inside. They have the best preserved copy of the four remaining copies of the Magna Carta, a document created in 1215.





I hit the road and headed to Stourhead Estate, a National Trust property. (I became a member of Heritage Canada because it provides me with free entry to any National Trust property.) It has rained most of the day today and the past few days have been really cold so a beautiful mist covered much of the estate. Made for some interesting photos and the frozen pond with a thin coating of rain water on top created incredible reflections.

Stourhead House.

When I walked up to the front counter, a volunteer greeted me and asked if I was interested in taking a tour. No other guests were around and when I told her I only had about an hour at the estate, she offered to walk with me and explain the history and make sure I saw all the key spots. In addition to receiving a personalized history lesson on the property, it was also nice to just have somebody to walk with me around the park - I get tired of wandering around alone. My guide retired recently and decided to give one day each week to provide walking tours of the gardens at the estate.

The Stourhead village church in the background.
The Palladian Bridge in the foreground, used in the 2005 version of Pride and Prejudice.
See the extra photos for a shot of the Temple of Apollo, also used in Pride and Prejudice.

A miniature of the Pantheon.

My guide explained that when the gardens were built, the new style was to use the lay of the land and create "surprises" along the way. A different view around each corner, smooth contours around the edges of the large pond, and little monuments and buildings placed carefully around the property.


Ever since I first considered this trip to the UK, the site near the top of my must-visit list was Lyme Regis. As I've mentioned before, my favourite Jane Austen movie is Persuasion (1995) and there are several scenes shot along the water in Lyme. One of my quirky dreams that I never really thought would come true was to walk along the breakwater (built in 1820). My time in the UK is partly about making quirky dreams come true just so I can say I had the experiences. I wasn't able to fit in much time in Lyme, but at least I've been there.

Standing on the breakwater.
It was cold and the wind was howling... in case you hadn't noticed.


It's a strange feeling to dream of doing something for over 10 years and finally have it come true. It's partly disappointing because now the dream is done, but it's also thrilling to know that the world is small enough for dreams like that to come true.

The long, sloping, curvy breakwater.

The reason why I didn't walk to the end of the breakwater.

Jane Austen people know what this is all about.

A rare spot of smooth sand on the beach at Lyme.

A selection of extra pictures for those who are curious: Link Here

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Road Trip - Day 4 - Stratford and Chipping Campden

I feel horrible. I woke up with a sore throat on Monday, the first day of this trip, and it has become a nasty cold with a foggy brain and everything. This morning I woke up and I just wanted to stay in bed all day. But I didn't. I dragged myself out of my cozy bed and hit the road.

First stop was Stratford-Upon-Avon. I'm not a huge Shakespeare fan so I didn't want to spend a lot of time there, but I figured since I was in the area, I might as well hit one of the famous sites. I chose Anne Hathaway's cottage (Shakespeare's wife), mostly because there were lots of signs so I knew I could find it easily!



I was told by a woman born and raised in the Cotswolds that a classic village to visit is Chipping Campden because it's not as touristy as some of the other more popular sites, yet it still has the charm. I found my way there and spent about an hour wandering around.

This market was built in the middle of town in 1627.

A street in Chipping Campden.

St. James' Church.
The majority of the structure was built between the 13th and 15th centuries.


The church had a beautiful graveyard overlooking rolling hills with ruins of an old estate in a nearby field. I love the beautiful headstones and the peace and quiet found in a graveyard. I'm intrigued by the mystery of the lives represented.

I had been hoping to find a stereotypical view for photos – the thatched-roof cottage with a creek meandering nearby. I found lots of cute villages but not the view I was hoping to find. Oh well – I gave up on my expectation and just enjoyed what the Cotswolds do offer. Lots of beautiful homes, rolling fields and hills, and little surprises around each corner.

A butcher shop in a quaint town.
Those are pheasants and rabbits hanging in a row.

"Pheasant, Andy! Pheasant!"

One of the roads I took is the former route of a Roman road along the top of a ridge running down the middle of the Cotswolds. I was able to enjoy a sweeping view of the rolling hills below as I drove to my next destination, Salisbury.

As I drove through a valley area I could see what looked like a castle tower on the top of a nearby hill. I was curious about it and when I reached the top of the hill there was a sign to “Broadway Tower”. I decided to take a little detour, taking advantage of one of the perks of having a car. The tower was a perfect Rapunzel castle perched on the top of a hill overlooking an incredible valley view... well, from the little I could see in the mist, I could tell the view would be incredible on a clear day. There was a light dusting of snow on the ground and the wind was bitterly cold, but it was just one of those great out-of-the-way moments of discovering a treasure accidentally.

Broadway Tower was inspired by Capability Brown and was completed in 1799. The viewing platform is the highest point in the Cotswolds (1089 feet).

More photos from the day for those who are curious: Link Here

This morning when I was looking for a B&B in Salisbury, I tried calling one place but the owner didn't have any space available. She gave me the number for another B&B so I gave them a call. The guy who answered the phone asked me what kind of room rate I'm looking for so I gave him the amount I was hoping for, he gave me a price £5 higher (still £15 less than their regular price), and I agreed. I scored the sweetest deal! This place is gorgeous!

The view from my doorway.

My cozy room.

I feel so spoiled to get to stay here tonight. The bathroom is about three times the size of the bedroom where I stayed last night. Lots of little perks – including a hot water bottle in the bed when I arrived and candles in the bathroom for a relaxing bath... I may never leave.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Road Trip - Day 3 - Evesham

Today was mostly just a driving day. I changed my travel plans to pick up the rental car this morning instead of tomorrow as I finished in Bath sooner than I expected. I've been having trouble with the GPS my parents gave me as a going-away present, so I spent a couple of hours working on downloading the updates and it's finally working in the UK! I was supposed to get a pick-up from the car rental place but the guy got lost so they took over an hour to finally pick me up (the guest house was a five minute drive from the rental agency).

I finally got the car and headed off on my recently-modified plans of covering the Cotswolds first, then heading south towards the coast. The scenery started off reminding me a little of the prairies - quite flat and lots of plowed fields. I eventually moved into the hills a bit but have yet to come across scenery that's stereotypical Cotswolds. I'm hoping to find those picturesque little villages tomorrow.

It's nice to be behind the wheel of a car. I'm trying not to relax too much because I know that's when I'll do something stupid. It feels relatively normal to drive on the left and shifting with my left hand doesn't feel awkward, but I know if I let down my guard I'll probably revert back to right-hand driving habits. Oh! - I have discovered the joy of driving a standard vehicle that isn't 15 or 20 years old! I didn't know driving standard could be so smooth!

As I pulled into a grocery store parking lot to pick up something for dinner, my cell phone rang and it was my sister calling from India! (I pulled over because it's illegal to talk on a cell while driving here.) She said calling long-distance from India is cheap so we were able to chat for a little while and catch up on what's happening. A few minutes later my mom called. She recently discovered that she has 1,000 free international minutes every month so I think my mobile will be ringing more often. I found a quiet bench and talked with her for an hour.

It's strange to travel alone, but getting internet access at the places where I stay at night and getting random calls from family and friends (thanks, Henry!) keeps me from feeling too isolated. Having this blog also helps because although I don't have somebody to laugh with and talk to along the way, I know I can share the pictures and stories later.

Right now I'm curled up on my bed in a tiny gabled room of a B&B in a small town called Evesham, about 20 minutes southwest of Stratford-Upon-Avon. The room couldn't hold two single beds side-by-side, though the room is about two feet longer than the bed. My stuff is dumped on the floor since there's nowhere else to put it. I have a little window tucked into the sloping roof of the gable above the bed. I love the coziness and it's about as cheap as staying in a hostel but with the comfort of being in a home.